MEASURING FABRIC FOR A FOLD

In a pattern you will sometimes be required to fold the fabric over by a certain amount and press it. For instance a pattern a pattern with a narrow hem might require you to fold over the fabric by 5/8”, press, unfold, fold it again this time with the raw edge along the crease, and press again. The problem is making that first fold. A top stitched patch pocket requires that you fold over and press the seam allowance before stitching it in place. Here are three methods for measuring for folds in fabric.

SEAM GUAGE

I first learned to make folds in fabric using a Seam Gauge, like the one to the left.  I would turn the fabric putting the red guide (blue on mine, see the picture to the right) along the fold and the edge of the guide along the raw edge of the fabric. You can run the guide along the fabric pushing it into place while also holding the fabric without getting your fingers close to the iron. It takes some practice, but it is a good method if you already have a seam gauge.

HOT HEMMER

Another way to do this is using a Hot Hemmer. I use the Clover 7806 Hot Hemmer like the one on the left. Because it can withstand the heat of the iron you are able to iron right on top of it.

It works by placing it on the fabric to be pressed (see picture at right), turning the fabric over the edge of the hemmer, lining the raw edge of the fabric to your preferred measurement, and then pressing in place. I do like this tool. But sometimes it is just a bother to have to use another tool to do something I know how to do without a tool. The other issue for me is that the crease is not sharp. You have to use a little more steam and pressure than maybe you would if you weren’t pressing around the edge of the hemmer. And because you are folding the fabric around an edge it makes a slightly larger fold unless you line up the fabric slightly shy of the measurement. This is an even greater challenge the thicker the fabric.

BASTING STITCH

The method I have used for many years with great success and ease is a basting stitch. I set my machine to the longest stitch length and using the guides on the stitch plate put a line of stitching along where the crease of the fold will be (see the picture to the left).

After I have made the line of stitching I move to the iron and fold the fabric along the line of stitching, using it as my guide, and press the fabric in place (see picture at lower left, you can just see the line of stitching along the fold).

The downside is that you may have a line of stitching you have to remove afterward, but since it is a basting stitch it is easy to do.

For me, this is the least fussy and quickest way to measure and mark when I have to make a fold in the fabric. It requires no special tools, which means no added expense, just the sewing machine that you already have.

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