MEASURING FABRIC FOR A FOLD

In a pattern you will sometimes be required to fold the fabric over by a certain amount and press it. For instance a pattern a pattern with a narrow hem might require you to fold over the fabric by 5/8”, press, unfold, fold it again this time with the raw edge along the crease, and press again. The problem is making that first fold. A top stitched patch pocket requires that you fold over and press the seam allowance before stitching it in place. Here are three methods for measuring for folds in fabric.

SEAM GUAGE

I first learned to make folds in fabric using a Seam Gauge, like the one to the left.  I would turn the fabric putting the red guide (blue on mine, see the picture to the right) along the fold and the edge of the guide along the raw edge of the fabric. You can run the guide along the fabric pushing it into place while also holding the fabric without getting your fingers close to the iron. It takes some practice, but it is a good method if you already have a seam gauge.

HOT HEMMER

Another way to do this is using a Hot Hemmer. I use the Clover 7806 Hot Hemmer like the one on the left. Because it can withstand the heat of the iron you are able to iron right on top of it.

It works by placing it on the fabric to be pressed (see picture at right), turning the fabric over the edge of the hemmer, lining the raw edge of the fabric to your preferred measurement, and then pressing in place. I do like this tool. But sometimes it is just a bother to have to use another tool to do something I know how to do without a tool. The other issue for me is that the crease is not sharp. You have to use a little more steam and pressure than maybe you would if you weren’t pressing around the edge of the hemmer. And because you are folding the fabric around an edge it makes a slightly larger fold unless you line up the fabric slightly shy of the measurement. This is an even greater challenge the thicker the fabric.

BASTING STITCH

The method I have used for many years with great success and ease is a basting stitch. I set my machine to the longest stitch length and using the guides on the stitch plate put a line of stitching along where the crease of the fold will be (see the picture to the left).

After I have made the line of stitching I move to the iron and fold the fabric along the line of stitching, using it as my guide, and press the fabric in place (see picture at lower left, you can just see the line of stitching along the fold).

The downside is that you may have a line of stitching you have to remove afterward, but since it is a basting stitch it is easy to do.

For me, this is the least fussy and quickest way to measure and mark when I have to make a fold in the fabric. It requires no special tools, which means no added expense, just the sewing machine that you already have.

This post includes affiliate links. The items do not cost you more, but I do receive a small commission if you purchase one through the link.

PERSONALIZED EASTER EGGS

I saw this idea online but I didn’t have the supplies to put the names on these with vinyl. BUT… I did have some SPRAY PAINT!  Yippie!

I bought these giant (7.75”x5”) Easter eggs from Dollar Tree tonight for… ahem, a dollar. They come in four colors: pink, green, blue, and lavender. I made a vinyl stencil (approximately 1”x4”) on my Silhouette Cameo using Allspice Alternatives font from TheHungryJpeg.com. I weeded out the name and applied it using transfer tape to the top of the egg. Using masking tape and paper, I covered the rest of the top to prevent overspray. I used Rust-Oleum Paint & Primer In One in white with satin finish to spray paint. I did two light coats, then removed the stencil within a minute to prevent peeling.

UPDATE: I used Rust-Oleum Paint & Primer in One spray paint with a satin finish and it is not durable long term. It doesn't not permanently stick to the plastic, which may be ok because the eggs would be reusable. But that is not the ideal. I have not tried Krylon Fusion, but it is specifically meant for plastic and may work better.

SUPPLIES

• Vinyl cutter
• Stencil vinyl
• Transfer tape
• Spray Paint (Preferably Flat or Matte finish and Krylon Fusion is meant for plastic)
• Giant Easter Eggs (available at Dollar Tree)
• Tape and paper to protect egg from overspray
• Rubbing alcohol
• Acetone (OPTIONAL - fingernail polish remover that is 100% acetone)

INSTRUCTIONS

	Step 1 Create your design in your vinyl cutting software. The name should be no more than 1” tall and 4” wide. I used Allspice Alternatives font, which is part of the Allspice font on TheHungryJpeg.com.
	STEP 2 Cut your stencil and weed out the names.
	STEP 3 OPTIONAL - Remove the printed decoration on the side of the clear top with Acetone.
	STEP 4 Clean the entire top with rubbing alcohol.
	STEP 5 Apply transfer tape to the top of your stencil, remove backing and apply it to your lid taking care to rub out all of the bubbles where you will apply the paint. It is best to work from the middle outward. You can also cut slits in the vinyl, taking care not to cut through to the weeded area, or use a hair dryer to soften the vinyl to make it conform to the curve of the lid.
	STEP 6 Mask off the rest of the lid using tape and paper. Spray two VERY LIGHT coats quickly. Then remove masking and stencil after about 30 seconds but before it completely dries, 1-2 minutes. If you wait until it dries, it may pull the paint off the lid. TIP: If you wait too long the paint may pull up with the stencil. You can start over by removing the paint with acetone. You can also heat the vinyl by holding an iron with steam about 5-8 second above the vinyl without touching it and then immediately removing the stencil.
	STEP 7 Allow to dry and then fill with goodies for the recipient!

GETTING DISCOURAGED

Washable storage bin cover.

Sometimes as I work on a project I get discouraged and I avoid the problem for a long time.

I started making these bin covers about two months ago just after finishing my first online tutorial. I got to the part where I had to make a cover for the bottom and I just got bogged down in all the problems and mistakes I made up to that point.

Here they are (in random order) so that you can either read them or skip them:

• 

  12x12 box on left, 12x9 on right

  In my haste I had forgotten to make the band at the top of three bins so I would have to resew them.
• The green fabric shrunk so much that my band sizes would be different between all the cover colors (yes this really bothers me).
• The bottom cover method wasn’t solidifying in my mind.
• The box size seemed way too big (this is one of the main things that sent me over the edge)
• I had not addressed adding handles or a label window.

I love it when supplies arrive!

So I lost my motivation and began to doubt myself. Over time I would go to my studio and correct one issue only to discover another. I would avoid it again for weeks. That was until I saw a light at the end of the tunnel when I finally used my idea for the bottom cover and it came out as I hoped!

Earlier this week I ordered hook and loop tape in the 3/8” size I wanted and it just arrived from HookandLoop.com. They carry Velcro® and Duragrip® brands in a lot of styles, sizes, and colors.

So, now it’s time to get back in the saddle and finish six more for my daughter’s room and then some for my pantry and maybe for my son’s bedroom.

When I post my tutorial, I won’t be including a handle or label pouch just yet. I have some ideas, but I need to test them out first.