Move my stuff?! Are you crazy?!

CUTTING TABLE

As I lay sprawled on the floor trying to spray baste my daughters quilt, my husband said, “Why don’t you clear off your cutting table so that you can put your quilt on there.”

BAH-HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Here is my cutting multipurpose table…

When Hancock Fabrics was going out of business in Macon, Georgia and I had a craft and wedding supply business called Bownut.com, we bought the monstrous table for $300. When I moved to NC and didn’t have space for it, I tried to give it away without success. Thank goodness because it is perfect for storing everything I don’t want to put away.

How many odd things can you point out in this picture? Hamburger phone. Genie lamp. LOL!

QUILTING

I finally finished my daughter’s quilt. I don’t know why I use the term “finally” because it took me less than a month to put it together, which was half the time it took to put together my son’s t-shirt quilt.

When I asked her what she wanted as far as colors for her quilt she said “everything.” Instead… I picked four colors from Jo-Ann Fabrics and Crafts Quilters Showcase. It took me hours to commit to the colors and patterns, and I must admit I was a little afraid when I asked them to cut 1/4" yard from 16 bolts of fabric. I pondered using four different patterns for the white fabric but I felt sure 17 bolts was probably the limit of what they were willing to cut.

When I brought home the fabric even my husband was pleased with the colors.

There are 120 blocks on this quilt, 10 across and 12 down. Each one measures approximately 7” x 7” (17.78cm x 17.78cm) so the finished quilt is 70” x 84” (1.778m x 2.1336m). This is perfect for her twin size bed. The blocks started out at 8” (20.32cm) and but the two side seams and a diagonal seam brought them down to their finished size.

This was A LOT of sewing to get to the end of a project. The garment and craft sewing I am used to come to their payoff (AKA the end) much faster. I had to work on other projects in the meantime so that I would not completely lose interest in sewing.

By the way, as I get older and less able to see clearly, I will stop obsessing over the mismatched points of the chevron.

I spray basted the quilting layers together using Odif 505 Spray. I bought it at AllStitch Embroidery Supplies online, but with shipping it was double what I would have paid at Jo-Ann’s (regularly $11.99 for 8.5oz and found in the quilting section) with a 50% off coupon. From the Bernina Lovers group on Facebook, I learned an easier way to spray baste the quilt sandwich. I lay down the batting first and then lay the top on top of it. I roll back half of the top to the middle. I spray across the width of the batting and up about a foot at a time, then spread the top back down with my hands smoothing from the middle to the outside edges. Once done with that half I do the same with the other half. Then I turn it over and repeat with the backing. This has made basting very easy and quick without pins, thread, or wrinkles.

I am not a fan of a lot of stitching on top. I think some of it is pretty, but can be a distraction. And since I am used to VERY heavy hand-tied quilts with lots of batting that smothered every limb, lots of decorative machine quilting makes quilts feel like toast to me. So I did a simple machine outline quilting in the white areas along the chevron. I stitched-in-the-ditch at first to see what it would look like, but I found it unimpressive. The outline quilting really made the pattern stand out.

I am going to give you my reasons first and then tell you what I did…

Because I am not necessarily subscribed to any one way of quilting or quilting traditions;
my daughter does not care one way or another if I hand- or machine-stitched; and
because aside from making the fabric and thread I “made” this quilt

I chose to machine bind the quilt.

*gasp*

I did the machine binding slightly differently because I am weird about stitching showing or not showing, being crooked, not being parallel, margins, etc. I machine stitched the bias tape to the front as usual. (I used this tutorial from Connecting Threads for my corners—see “What do I do when I get to the corner?”—using the 45° angle instruction) Next, I turned the bias tape to the back and clipped it in place using these awesome craft clips from Embroidex. Then I topstitched 2mm away into the bias from my previous stitching line. I didn’t want a line of stitching into the top of the quilt, I also didn’t mind the line of stitching in the bias on the top, and I felt I could ignore any variation in the margin of the stitching through the bias on the back because I just wouldn’t see it. If I can’t see it, it doesn’t exist.

I have to say that some of my decisions were met with a lot of worry on my part about how they might be received by others, especially those with more experience or skill. But practicality won out. Just like anesthesia for having a baby doesn’t mean I didn’t have a baby, using a machine for binding doesn’t mean it isn’t hand made.

At the beginning of this post I mentioned a t-shirt quilt I made for my son. It was my first quilt ever and it was a doozy. Instead of making each block of equal size, I thought, naively, it would be fun to just cut out the most significant part of the design. This made for a TON of work constantly measuring to make pieces fit together and seams match up. I wouldn’t trade it for the world. I LOVE the way this quilt turned out. It is just as busy as I wanted it to be.

This quilt had a two-fold purpose. My son is a hoarder of t-shirts. Well, that is not exactly being honest. He doesn’t like letting go of childhood things including t-shirts, toys, papers, books, etc. In order to get rid of the abundance of t-shirts that he had, I offered to make him a quilt. He loved the idea.

My son is also ADHD. During the process of making the top of the quilt I read about

weighted blankets used for ADHD, autism, etc. as a calming device. I decided to make the quilt heavy so that he could use it when he needed to feel comforted or calm. Instead of using plastic pellets normally used in weighted blankets, I used an extra layer of 1/8” (3.175mm) batting and a layer of 12 oz denim. The quilt is so heavy it just hugs you. I had a hard time giving it to him for Christmas.

Lemons from lemonade… Do you see the second-to-last column where all the designs are cut off? That was done after I accidentally cut off the design of the first blocks that were to make up that column.

That quilt took me two months and I did hand stitch the binding on the back. I just barely stopped peeling callouses from my fingers.

PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS BLOG POST
If you purchase from Amazon using the links I have posted I get a very small commission. I only link to these products because I use them and like them and I have no problem getting a tiny commission if I am doing some of their marketing.

As I mentioned before, I can get Odif 505 Basting Spray at Jo-Anne's with a 50% off coupon for $5.99. You can also find it at Michael's and Walmart according to the manufacturer's website.

Microtex saves the day!

Just like using the right tool for the job, there is a difference when using the right needle for the job.

As I was creating my recent Scripture Case Pattern, I noticed that my stitches weren’t quite as straight as I like them to be. I like them straight, like straight straight. I realized I was using a universal 80/12 needle. Since I was working with denim and using a lot of topstitching, I changed my needle to a Microtex 80/12. The reason I did this is because Microtex needles are sharp and they cut through whatever they hit instead of getting pushed around by the fabric threads. Two other options would be a Topstitching or Denim needle. I haven’t tried the Topstitching needle yet, do you have any feedback? And because I was lazy and knew the Microtex would work, I didn’t bother with the denim.

Here is what happens when you use the right tools for the job.

You’re right, it is hard to see the difference, but in person this perfectionist was stressed.

I like spread-sheets, and I cannot lie! - Scripture Case DIY (Use your own measurements)

I like spreadsheets, perhaps a little too much. When I owned a craft and wedding supply store, we had an online spreadsheet that our customers could use to determine how much tulle they needed to make a no-sew tutu. All the user had to do was input the waist measurement and then length of the finished tutu and it would give you exactly what you needed. Yep, they’re great.

I recently posted my pattern and instructions for making a scripture case for 7 3/8 x 5 3/8 x 2 3/8 set of scriptures. However, not everyone has scriptures that are that size. So after trying to create a written tutorial with a lot of math and algebra and letters mixed with numbers, I decided to create a spreadsheet instead that would do all of the calculating. All the user has to do is input the height, width, and depth of their scriptures and a written list of pieces and their measurements is automatically output. I even included sort of a drawing (see the picture to the left) with the measurements on the sides so that it would be easier for those who need to see it instead of just reading the measurements.

So CLICK HERE to be taken to the spreadsheet for IMPERIAL (which is inches) so you can get measurements to make your own scripture case. Be aware that the spreadsheet is public, so if someone else is also on the spreadsheet at the same time, they can change the measurements, too. CLICK HERE for the metric (centimeters) version.

Also, you’ll still need my original tutorial, which is located here. And you’ll need a zipper that is slightly longer than your measurement for the zipper enclosure. I needed a 20” zipper, but if your set is larger than mine, you’ll need a longer zipper.

UPDATED - Scripture Case Pattern and Instructions

I've been working... thinking about this tutorial for just less than a year and I am finally done with it! These instructions and the following pattern fit scriptures measuring 7 3/8” x 5 3/8” x 2 3/8” (13.4cm X 18.4cm x 5.9cm small quad for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints).

CLICK HERE for the pattern for the small quad case.

If you need a different size for your Bible or other scriptures, use my online Scripture Case Calculator: Scripture Case Calculator (Imperial – inches) or Scripture Case Calculator (Metric – centimeters)

If you find this pattern useful, please consider a $1 donation here.

SCRIPTURE CASE

These instructions and pattern fit scriptures measuring 7 3/8” x 5 3/8” x 2 3/8” (small quad for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints).

SUPPLIES

1/3 yd 44” wide Fabric
22” Zipper
Sewing Machine
Scissors
Pins
Thread
Marking materials

PATTERN

SIDE (Cut 2)
POCKET (Cut 1 or 2)
ZIPPER ENCLOSURE (Cut 2 on fold)
TOP (under handle - Cut 1)
HANDLE (Cut 2)

STITCHES

BASTE: Generally the longest stitch on your machine, about 6 stitches per inch.

EDGESTITCH: Straight stitch close to the finished edge, usually 1/8” or 1/16”.

STITCH: A straight stitch, generally 10-12 stitches per inch.

TOPSTITCH: Straight stitch ¼” from the previous line of stitching.

TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH: Machines stitch this automatically using two stitches forward, one stitch back. This can be done manually by sewing over the line of stitching three times.

INSTRUCTIONS

Prepare Pattern

Cut out pattern.

Pin all pattern pieces to fabric and cut, OR
using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut out pieces.

Picture 1 - Cut using a rotary cutter and ruler

Mark pattern.

Picture 2 - Make ¼” clips into fabric at black triangles on all pieces, these will be referenced as SINGLE CLIP or DOUBLE CLIP in the instructions.

Picture 3 - Tracing Paper used to mark stitching lines

Make a ¼” clip into the fold of the seam allowance for the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE, Picture 4.

Picture 4 – Clip (see Picture 2) the fold in ZIPPER ENCLOSURE

Optional POCKET steps 4-6.

On POCKET fold ½” on top edge to wrong side and press.

Picture 5 – Using a Hot Hemmer to fold and press 1/2” seam

TIP: No Hot Hemmer? Run a basting stitch along the fold line (Picture 6), and then turn the fabric along the line of stitching and press (Picture 7).

Picture 6 – Basting stitch along fold line

Picture 7 – Folding and pressing fabric along stitch line

Turn POCKET to right side and EDGESTITCH along fold (Picture 7).

Picture 8 – Edgestitching

Then TOPSTITCH (Picture 7) along fold. Press.

Picture 9 - Topstitching

Place the wrong side of POCKET to the right side of SIDE, align the SINGLE CLIP (see caption Picture 2), and BASTE together using a ½” seam (Picture 8). OPTIONAL: REPEAT Steps 4-6 for other POCKET.

Picture 10 – POCKET basted to SIDE

Optional pen pockets

STITCH along optional stitching lines on POCKET (Picture 9).

Picture 11 – Pen pocket stitching done using a Triple Straight Stitch

Starting at TOPSTITCHING along fold, add a narrow and dense zigzag (Picture 10) for reinforcement. OPTIONAL: REPEAT for other POCKET.

Picture 12 – Narrow, dense zigzag used for reinforcement

Zipper and Enclosure

Attach zipper

OPTION 1 – With right sides together, align the unclipped edge of the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE to the zipper (Picture 11), the end seam should be set ¼” above the top stop of the zipper (Picture 12). STITCH close to zipper teeth.

Picture 13 – OPTION 1 Sew right sides of ZIPPER ENCLOSURE and zipper together.

Picture 14 – Top of zipper enclose is placed ¼” above top zipper stop.

Turn ZIPPER ENCLOSURE to right side and EDGESTITCH along fold close to the zipper teeth (Picture 13)

Picture 15 – Stitch close to zipper teeth

OPTION 2 – Fold and press the 3/8” seam on the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE. Align the folded edge to zipper teeth and EDGESTITCH as before (Picture 13). Press.

TIP: To move past the zipper slider, stop your work with your needle in the fabric, lift your presser foot, move the slider to the other side of your presser foot, put the presser foot down and resume stitching.

TIP: I use a zigzag stitch to keep the zipper tape closed when the zipper slider is down (Picture 12).

Picture 16 – Pressing seam

TIP: Pressing seams is important to make your project neat and seams easier to handle. Press your seams in place right after you sew them. If required, press your seam allowances either open or in the direction indicated. Last, press again on the right side of fabric.

Handle and Top

With right sides together, STITCH the HANDLE pieces along long edge with a ¼” seam, then turn right side out.

Picture 17 – Turning the handle right side out

EDGESTITCH along each seam edge, then TOPSTITCH.

Picture 18 - HANDLE after edgestitch and topstitch

Align the bottom side of HANDLE to the SINGLE CLIPS on the right side of the TOP and BASTE together at ¼”. REPEAT for other side of TOP.

Picture 19 – Basting HANDLE to TOP

Picture 20 – Basting HANDLE to TOP on other side

With right sides together, STITCH together the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE to the TOP/HANDLE using a ½” seam.

Picture 21 – TOP/HANDLE stitched to ZIPPER ENCLOSURE.

Press seam allowances toward the middle of the TOP (Picture 20).

Picture 22 – Press seam allowance to middle of TOP

On right side of TOP, EDGESTITCH the seam taking care to sew under the HANDLE. Then TOPSTITCH (Picture 21). REPEAT for other side.

Picture 23 – Edgestitching and topstitching on TOP

Finishing

With right sides together, align the SINGLE CLIP of ZIPPER ENCLOSURE and SIDE and pin. Do the same at the DOUBLE CLIP of the TOP and SIDE pieces. Begin pinning the seams together starting at the SINGLE CLIP. When you get 3/8” from the corner, make a 3/8” clip in the seam allowance of the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE. Pin the edge of the clip you just made to the seam allowance, then turn the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE and line up the seam with the next perpendicular seam allowance of the SIDE (Picture 22). Take care not to stretch or pull the fabric so that it lines up all the way around. REPEAT for all corners.

Picture 24 – The red marks indicate the 3/8” from the corner and the 3/8” depth into the seam allowance.

STITCH together at ½” seam allowance. REPEAT for other side.

TIP: For better corners, use shorter stitches 1” on each side of corner. And instead of a sharp pivot at the corner, take one or two stitches diagonally across the corner.

Clean up your project snipping loose threads and removing basting stitches that may show on the right side (Picture 23).

Picture 25 – Remove basting stitching that might show

OPTIONAL – Seam finishing

Finishing your seams.

Sewing machine. Use whatever overlock or edge finish stitch you are comfortable with on your machine. A zigzag is ok, but the stitched zigzag is very quick and effective (Picture 24).

Picture 26 – Stitched zigzag

Serger. A serger is used to finish the seams.

Picture 27 - Serged seam allowance

TIP: Seam finishing is not only for looks but to preserve your project from unraveling from use or washing. You can “finish” all of the seams in this project before you begin if you prefer to have all of your seams finished. After you finish sewing it is only possible to finish the ZIPPER ENCLOSURE/SIDE seams that you sewed in Step 12.

You are finished!

Here is how this one turned out. My daughter has already asked if she can have it. But she can’t because this is the first scripture case I have ever had in my life.